Once I first started experimenting within the kitchen as a child, the very first thing I took observe of when opening the spice cupboard was a big container of an earthy yellow powder, typically spilled and marking the cabinets. This seasoning mix was very acquainted to me, because it was one thing I frequently watched my mother generously sprinkle into her spicy rooster and coconut shrimp stews.
Many individuals take delight in utilizing curry powder of their cuisines—from my Haitian household sprinkling it in rooster dishes to my Bermudian facet’s inclusion of the mix in inexperienced banana and shrimp stew. The pulverized combination of floor spices, aromatics, and generally thickening brokers just isn’t solely a staple in Caribbean American households like my very own but additionally throughout Asian, African, and Latin American cuisines.
To really uncover the myriad methods during which many South American, Caribbean, African, South Asian, and East Asian communities use curry powder of their dishes, I spoke with a number of meals specialists, together with Devan Rajkumar, a Guyanese cookbook creator; Leela Punyaratabandhu, a Thai-American cookbook creator; Michelle and Suzanne Rousseau, Jamaican cookbook authors; Pailin Chongchitnant, a Thai cookbook creator; Rie McClenny, a Japanese cookbook creator; Romy Gill, a British-Indian cookbook creator; and Tomi Makanjuola, a British-Nigerian cookbook creator. We mentioned how this seasoning mix seems in fashionable Guyanese, Thai, Jamaican, Japanese, Indian, and Nigerian cooking.
Curry Powder Controversy
Earlier than we dive into the makes use of of curry powder in numerous cuisines, it is worthwhile to grasp a bit in regards to the difficult historical past of powder and its connection to colonialism. In An Invitation to Indian Cooking, cookbook creator Madhur Jaffrey calls the time period “curry” degrading. She says that in terms of curry powder, “the British are liable for its creation.” By the 1850s, concurrently whereas British colonizers continued to ravage India’s thriving tradition and financial system, British cookbooks began counting on a spoonful of curry powder in a lot of their dishes, in line with Curry: A Story of Cooks and Conquerers, Lizzie Collingham. This pulverized turmeric-heavy combine, which included spices like coriander seed, cumin, fenugreek, and cayenne, rose as a method to scale back India’s huge cuisines—yep, we’re speaking the subcontinent’s regional flavors and cooking strategies—right into a sprinkable all-purpose substance.
Curry powder’s connection to colonialism and the subjugation of Black, Brown, and Asian folks has led many, together with culinary specialists like Jaffrey and Amirah Islam, a High Chef Amateurs winner and meals historian, to ask whether or not curry powder nonetheless serves a objective or deserves a spot in fashionable kitchens. However for a lot of communities, it’s somewhat extra difficult than simply dumping curry powders for good—particularly now that numerous cooks from so many alternative international locations use the spice mix of their cuisines. In the present day, you’ll discover Trinidadian folks sprinkling the yellow stuff in channa and Jamaicans folding the turmeric-heavy combination in suet doughs for patties. You might also discover it exhibiting up in Thai dishes like curry puffs or Japanese staples like fried rice.
What Is Curry Powder?
“The Western idea of curry powder got here from the British who took the thought of ‘spice blends’ they found in the course of the colonization of India, and created a mix of their very own,” says Chongchitnant, creator of Scorching Thai Kitchen: Demystifying Thai Delicacies with Genuine Recipes to Make at Dwelling. Within the nineteenth century, British colonization continued to ravage India’s thriving tradition and financial system. Because of this, these degrading techniques pressured many individuals from the subcontinent to depart their houses and search indentured labor in unfamiliar elements of the world, which had been concurrently going through their very own ranges of white imperial management. Throughout these intervals of pressured migration, English-produced canisters stuffed with curry powder infiltrated the markets of many African, Caribbean, South American, and Asian international locations, to call just a few.
Nevertheless, through the years, this mix has transcended its bleak origins and utilization, and numerous iterations of curry powder present up in cuisines across the globe. Although formulation fluctuate, the mix sometimes contains floor spices like turmeric and coriander, aromatics like dehydrated garlic and onion, and generally thickening brokers like rice or chickpea flour, which promote a hearty texture in stews. “[I grew] up with a spoon of curry in my mouth my entire life and consuming it throughout all our meals,” says Rajkumar, creator of Mad Love: Large Flavors Made to Share, from South Asia to the West Indies. He factors out just a few elements that traditionally are at all times current within the combination, “I might say turmeric, coriander, cumin, fenugreek, mustard, and black pepper [are typically found in the spice blend].”
Kinds of Curry Powder and The place to Discover Them
Curry powder is available in a variety of shades, from shiny yellow to deep orange and wealthy brown, explains Suzanne Rousseau, the co-author of Provisions: The Roots of Caribbean Cooking. Its flavors fluctuate broadly—some are so spicy that you simply solely want a small spoonful, whereas others are delicately floral, with aromas that fill the air as quickly as you open the bundle. You could find curry powder in shops and on-line offered in cartons, cans, jars, or luggage (notably in Caribbean, East Asian, Southeast Asian, South American, and West African markets). Beneath is a small sampling—the listing may go on and on since there are such a lot of varieties!—of curry powder manufacturers from completely different areas, together with their taste profiles and ingredient make-up. “However take into account that each model has a special recipe,” Chongchitnant factors out, so that you’ll wish to pattern just a few to seek out one of the best one for every dish that you simply’re planning to make.
Asian Curry Powders
Hand No. 1 Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Coriander, Fenugreek, Wheat Flour, Salt, Cumin, Fennel, Chile, Black Pepper, Mustard Seed
Taste profile: Earthy
Waugh’s Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Cumin, Turmeric, Fenugreek, Mustard Seeds, Black Pepper, Pink Chili Powder, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Cloves
Taste profile: Citrusy, floral, earthy
S&B Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Coriander, Fenugreek, Cumin, Orange Peel, Black Pepper, Chili Pepper, Cinnamon, Fennel, Ginger, Star Anise, Thyme, Bay Leaves, Cloves, Nutmeg, Sage, Cardamom
Taste profile: Earthy, subtly spicy
African Curry Powders
Lion Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Turmeric, Fenugreek, Mustard, Rice Flour, Cumin, Salt, Ginger, Cayenne Pepper, Nutmeg, Fennel
Taste profile: Citrusy, earthy, subtly spicy
Ducros Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Coriander, Cumin, Fenugreek, Black Pepper, Ginger, Mustard, Fennel, Allspice, Pink Pepper
Taste profile: Floral, earthy
South American and Caribbean Curry Powders
Lalah’s Madras Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Chiles, Black Pepper, Cumin, Mustard Powder, Fenugreek, Garlic, Turmeric, Salt, Bengal Gram Farina
Taste profile: Earthy, citrusy, subtly spicy
Chief Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Fenugreek, Salt, Fennel, Chiles
Taste profile: Citrusy, earthy, floral
Chief Scorching and Spicy Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Fenugreek, Black Cumin, Star Anise, Chiles, Salt
Taste profile: Citrusy, floral, spicy
Baron Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Turmeric, Fennel, White Cumin, Fenugreek, Masala, Corn Starch, Mustard Powder, Black Cumin, Chilli Pepper, Garlic, Onion, Ginger
Taste profile: Citrusy, subtly candy, floral, spicy, earthy
Guyanese Satisfaction Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Turmeric, Cumin, Poppyseeds, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Chiles, Ginger, Chickpea Flour, Salt, Cardamom
Taste profile: Citrus, earthy, spicy
Maywah Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Coriander, Chiles, Black Pepper, Cumin, Mustard, Fenugreek, Garlic, Turmeric, Salt, Bengal Gram Farina
Taste profile: Citrusy, earthy
Grace Gentle Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Fenugreek, Coriander, Cumin, Star Anise, Pepper, Pimento, Cloves, Garlic
Taste profile: Subtly candy, floral, earthy
Grace Scorching Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Salt, Dehydrated Garlic, Dehydrated Onion, Pink Pepper, Cumin, Coriander, Allspice, Fenugreek
Taste profile: Subtly candy, floral, earthy, spicy
Island Spice Curry Powder
Critical Eats
Elements: Turmeric, Black Pepper, Coriander, Fenugreek, Cumin, Pink Pepper, Ginger, Cloves
Taste profile: Citrusy, floral, earthy, spicy
Retailer Curry Powder
Whether or not you’ve returned from a visit overseas or simply out of your native specialty spice store and eventually bought your fingers on a really particular curry powder, you may really feel tempted to make use of it sparingly over just a few years. Nevertheless, Rajkumar recommends utilizing it earlier than its freshness diminishes. He explains that spice blends like curry powder can lose taste over time, so storing it in an hermetic container in a cool, darkish, dry spot will prolong its shelf life and preserve its aromas potent. We advocate utilizing floor spices inside a yr of buying. Punyaratabandhu, creator of Bangkok: Recipes and Tales from the Coronary heart of Thailand, notes you possibly can preserve your curry powder within the freezer to assist preserve its freshness—simply make sure it is tightly sealed to forestall it from absorbing moisture and odors.
Prepare dinner With Curry Powder
Beneath are just a few examples of how cooks and meals specialists—representing Guyana, Thailand, Jamaica, Japan, India, and Nigeria—incorporate curry powder into their dishes.
Curry Powder in Jamaican Dishes
Critical Eats / Karina Matalon
To finesse a wealthy, fragrant Jamaican curry, a beneficiant quantity of curry powder is important, whether or not braising rooster, goat, fish, conch, chickpeas, or an Ital stew with pumpkin and plantains. The spice mix started showing on the island within the nineteenth century, when Indian indentured laborers migrated to Jamaica. The Jamaican-born Rousseau sisters, authors of Caribbean Potluck: Trendy Recipes from Our Household Kitchen, clarify that cooks on the island typically use seasoning manufacturers like Grace Scorching Curry Powder as a marinade. Suzanne notes that you may let your protein sit on this spice mix for hours, and even in a single day, earlier than browning and stewing it with greens, aromatics, and coconut milk. This technique permits for elements like oxtail or goat to realize higher moisture retention and are available out tender and juicy.
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Curried Jamaican Beef Patties
Michelle factors out that curry powder can be a key ingredient in cultural gems like Jamaican patties, during which the seasoning will get woven into the pastry’s buttery crust earlier than being filled with fillings like curry rooster or lobster. And when you go to a roadside seafood restaurant in Jamaica, Michelle says, you’ll additionally discover grilled shrimp or lobster marinated within the turmeric-based mix.
Curry Powder in Japanese Dishes
Curry powder was launched to Japan within the nineteenth century in the course of the Meiji Restoration, in line with Curry: A Story of Cooks and Conquerers by Lizzie Collingham, when the nation was pressured to signal commerce treaties with Europe and the US. In the present day, McClenny, the creator of Make It Japanese, typically grinds her personal spice blends from scratch—besides in terms of S&B Curry Powder, which she calls the “OG.” “When writing my cookbook, I needed to incorporate Japanese curry,” she says. “I attempted to imitate the S&B curry powder, however I couldn’t.” She explains that the great thing about curry powder lies in its comfort. Not everybody has time to open up “30 jars of spices”—or supply orange peels, that are included within the S&B model’s combination—to create a mix. As a substitute of grinding up a bunch of spices, “You possibly can simply sprinkle it,” she says. In Japanese delicacies, curry powder is crucial in dishes like curry stew, curry udon, and curry bread. The Japanese-born prepare dinner particulars making curry bread, which entails wrapping dough round a scoop of Japanese curry stew, coating it in panko, and frying it till crispy. “And I keep in mind my mother used [curry powder] for fried rice, only a sprinkle,” she says. “I’ve additionally seen folks use it for potato salad.”
Curry Powder in Nigerian Dishes
Critical Eats / Maureen Celestine
Although it wasn’t till the nineteenth century colonial period, when British colonizers plagued Nigeria, that curry powder made its approach into the nation, in line with Curry: A International Historical past by Colleen Taylor Sen, the powder figures into many now-classic Nigerian dishes. “With Nigerian dishes, we have a tendency to only add the curry powder in the identical step that you’d add dried-up spices, the salt, or different seasonings,” Makanjuola, creator of the cookbook Vegan Nigerian Kitchen, says. The Nigerian-born chef remembers watching her mother sprinkle Lion’s curry powder right into a pot with rooster and beef bones to counterpoint the flavour of the inventory, which she would then use as a taste booster for a lot of dishes, like rice and sautéed greens. She additionally factors out that one of many West African nation’s most iconic dishes, jollof rice, contains curry powder. The turmeric-rich mix offers Nigerian fried rice its signature shiny yellow hue and aromatic taste, too. Curry powder additionally enhances the savoriness of conventional dishes like Nigerian egg sauce and crimson pepper sauce.
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Obe Ata (Nigerian Pink Pepper Sauce)
Curry Powder in Thai Dishes
“There isn’t any such factor as Thai curry powder,” Chongchitnant explains, noting that curry powder just isn’t a standard Thai ingredient. “I might classify all of them as a part of fashionable Thai cooking,” she says, including that Thai delicacies historically depends extra on recent herbs and aromatics that create the muse of Thai curry pastes that present up in lots of dishes like stir-fries and soups.
The curry spice mix didn’t even contact down within the nation till the nineteenth century, in line with Sen’s e-book, when British colonizers introduced the pre-made spice mix with them to Southeast Asia. The favored curry powder manufacturers that grew to become well-known in Thailand over time are Waugh’s and S&B, that are produced in Thailand and Japan, respectively. Regardless of its late arrival to the nation, curry powder figures into a number of Thai dishes. You’ll sometimes discover this seasoning in dishes like curry crab stir fry, Chongchitnant says. Punyaratabandhu provides that curry powder can be utilized in dishes like curry puffs, a preferred Thai snack, and fried pineapple rice.
Curry Powder in Guyanese Dishes
In Guyana, you’ll discover cooks and residential cooks tossing curry powder in lots of comforting dishes like beef and breadnut stew. One of the vital fashionable varieties, Madras curry powder—which kinds the flavour base of this curry rooster salad recipe—presents a glimpse into the results of colonialism. Madras, town now referred to as Chennai, was traditionally a key British extraction hub in India in the course of the colonial period. The spice mix initially landed in Guyana within the nineteenth century, when Indian indentured laborers migrated to the nation.
Guyanese Pepperpot
In the present day, cooks and residential cooks throughout Guyana use curry powder in numerous dishes, particularly stews similar to rooster, duck, Gilbaka fish, breadnut, cassava, channa, cauliflower, and beef pepperpot. Rajkumar notes that when cooking stews, many of us on the island toast aromatics like garlic and onions first, then make a paste by mixing the curry powder with water with a view to assist the curry powder seep into the dish shortly, earlier than including it to the pot together with proteins and greens.
Curry Powder in Indian Dishes
Vicky Wasik
Whereas we will credit score India for its ingenuity and culinary finesse round creating a few of the most dynamic and flavorful spice blends, Gill, chef and creator of Romy Gill’s India: Recipes from Dwelling, urges folks to eliminate the time period curry powder and name it what it’s: a spice mix. The phrase “curry powder” began exhibiting up in British cookbooks within the 1850s, in line with Collingham’s e-book, nevertheless it’s an inaccurate title. “Indian delicacies is so regional,” Gill affirms. There aren’t any similarities between a garam masala—a typical Northern Indian spice mix utilized in dishes like cauliflower sabzi and aloo tikki—from Punjab or Bengal. “Each state has its personal strategies and strategies of mixing the spices and making a spice mix.”
The Takeaway
Whereas it could take time for international views towards “curry powder” to shift, all of us have the chance as meals lovers to assist rewrite its narrative—acknowledging its colonial previous whereas embracing its evolution. Black, Brown, and Asian communities, who endured the violence and devastation of imperialism, are reclaiming curry powder and utilizing it to create dishes that can proceed to be integral to their cultures for generations. In Guyana, cooks add the spice mix to duck stews, whereas in Nigeria, they combine it into jollof rice, reinventing the seasoning in modern methods. Impressed by Indian culinary traditions, immediately, cooks, dwelling cooks, and native spice companies craft their very own blends with particular ingredient ratios boasting completely different taste profiles. What was as soon as a consequence of colonial appropriation is now an creative staple, due to the kitchen knowledge of Black, Brown, and Asian cooks.