Saturday, August 9, 2025

The brutal trade-off that may resolve the way forward for meals

Maybe essentially the most essential thought for understanding our species’ future on this planet boils down to 2 boring phrases: land use.

To mitigate local weather change, people might want to extract crucial minerals to construct huge numbers of photovoltaic cells and wind generators. We’ll want hundreds of thousands of tons of copper to wire continent-spanning energy grids. However essentially the most immutable useful resource constraint we face — the one we will’t mine extra of — is land.

Though many people don’t see it, as a result of most people now stay in city areas, the story of land constraints is mostly a story about agriculture, which devours practically half of our planet’s liveable land; city and suburban areas take up solely a tiny fraction.

We’re not utilizing all that farmland very properly. Beef farming, for instance, occupies “practically half the world’s agricultural land to supply simply 3 p.c of its energy,” the journalist Michael Grunwald writes in his new e-book, We Are Consuming the Earth. Partially as a result of it consumes a lot land, agriculture contributes between 1 / 4 and a 3rd of all greenhouse gasoline emissions, and as humanity’s numbers climb, its footprint will swell. “If present developments maintain, the world’s farmers will clear not less than a dozen extra Californias’ value of land to fill practically 10 billion human bellies by 2050,” Grunwald writes.

Grunwald’s e-book — a energetic, reportorial world tour via the misunderstood science and politics of agriculture, usually defined through Gen X film references — is amongst a slate of recent titles that I like to consider because the abundance agenda of meals.

Abundance, Ezra Klein and Derek Thompson’s bestselling it-girl of wonk manifestos, shares mental DNA with a rising set of concepts bringing supply-side financial rules to the way forward for farming. Simply as we will’t resolve the housing disaster or the inexperienced power hole with a politics of shortage, we will’t repair agriculture’s planetary influence by merely producing much less meals. We now have to develop sufficient meals to affordably and sustainably feed a world of 8 billion and counting. And since there’s a tough restrict on land, meaning determining the way to squeeze extra meals out of our valuable acreage.

The proposed options would possibly shock you. They aren’t crunchy farming philosophies like native agriculture or so-called regenerative ranching — woefully inefficient, low-productivity programs that, if deployed at scale, would imply mowing down the world’s remaining forests, accelerating local weather change and mass extinction. That’s as a result of wild, carbon-sequestering ecosystems are our greatest pure defenses towards local weather change, which is one thing that no agricultural sample can replicate. “Each farm, even the scenic ones with purple barns and rolling hills that artists paint and writers sentimentalize, is a sort of environmental crime scene,” Grunwald writes. And right this moment, “international agriculture is shifting south, towards tropical forests and wetlands which might be the world’s most precious carbon sinks,” just like the Amazon.

Meaning a very powerful determinant of agriculture’s planetary influence is how a lot land it sucks up — what Grunwald calls “the eating-the-earth drawback.” By this measure, typical, intensive, industrial crop farming like that practiced throughout the US, and closely criticized by many environmentalists, outperforms natural agriculture or low-yield farming frequent in low-income international locations, for the easy purpose that it produces essentially the most meals on the least land (although there’s, to make certain, nuance to this debate).

We Are Consuming the Earth is joined by a grumpier, extra educational provocation on meals sustainability. Meals Combat, by UC Davis agricultural economist Richard Sexton, decries the insurance policies being carried out all over the world, usually within the identify of serving to the surroundings, that may make farming much less productive and fewer sustainable, and meals dearer. “By no means have governments actively intervened to implement insurance policies assured to cut back meals manufacturing the best way they do right this moment and promise to do into the long run,” he argues, dismantling approaches starting from mindless ethanol mandates within the US and elsewhere to Europe’s pro-organic and anti-GMO insurance policies.

These are clever, extremely well timed books that get many issues proper, surfacing the misguided pastoral fantasies and deadly misunderstandings of land use that make it laborious for us to pursue sane agricultural insurance policies. They encourage due respect for a contemporary industrial meals system that, for all its issues, has achieved spectacular feats of productiveness essential to help a planet of billions of individuals.

However their emphasis on intensification additionally leads them someplace way more ominous: a protection of the worst a part of our meals system, one that may result in ever-more horrifying ranges of struggling and demise.

The rise of anti-anti-factory farming

Repairing our meals system is so confoundingly tough partially as a result of it usually feels extra intractable than it must be. We already know we may alleviate plenty of the issue by consuming much less meat and dairy — the meals equal of coal energy — and extra crops, however convincing shoppers to try this via both coverage or suasion is basically, actually laborious. (Imagine me, I strive).

“One American pollster instructed me meat taxes have been essentially the most unpopular coverage he ever surveyed, ‘up there with veterans’ advantages for ISIS,’” Grunwald grimly remarks. And one of many surest bets you may place on the long run, as each authors level out, is that as individuals in low- and middle-income international locations turn out to be richer, they’ll eat heaps extra animal merchandise. People already slaughter an eye-watering 80 billion land animals per yr, a quantity that may proceed to soar.

Resigned to that dismal actuality, each We Are Consuming the Earth and Meals Combat replicate an concept that’s more and more prevalent in way forward for meals debates — that manufacturing facility farms, regardless of their cruelty, are a needed evil. Name it anti-anti-factory farming.

The reasoning is easy sufficient. Animal agriculture takes up numerous land and sources — that’s why meat is unhealthy for the surroundings within the first place. The one technique to produce it at scale with out blowing up local weather targets and clearing rainforests is to boost animals as intensively as potential via what’s known as “sustainable intensification.”

Manufacturing facility farms don’t exist merely to be evil, in spite of everything, however somewhat as a result of they produce animal merchandise with the fewest potential inputs. Simply as a lot as these books puncture Michael Pollan-esque pipe desires of feeding the world with pasture-raised steak, additionally they have little endurance for animal rights activists who wish to regulate manufacturing facility farming out of existence.

Thus included on Sexton’s listing of misguided insurance policies are animal welfare legal guidelines like California’s Proposition 12, which ban among the most excessive types of confinement for cattle, together with caging feminine breeding pigs in crates so small they’re comparable to spending a whole human life trapped inside a coffin.

“Insurance policies being imposed within the identify of animal welfare scale back the productiveness of those animals and lift the prices of manufacturing animal merchandise,” he writes. In equity to Sexton, whom I’ve an infinite quantity of respect for and have interviewed for quite a few tales, he suggests what he argues is an alternate, more cost effective path to attaining the welfare advantages of Prop 12. “I like animals and need them to be handled effectively,” he writes.

A stark, dimly lit photograph taken from a high angle shows several large, light-pink pigs confined in individual metal stalls inside what appears to be a factory farm. The narrow stalls are lined up in a row, barely wider than the pigs themselves, preventing them from turning around. The pig on the right looks directly up toward the camera, its snout and ears illuminated by the harsh overhead light. The floor is dark and appears wet, and the overall scene conveys a sense of intense confinement.

Pigs housed in gestation crates.
Jo-Anne McArthur/We Animals Media

Grunwald extra gingerly suggests manufacturing facility farms stay an inevitable, if inhumane and never ultimate, a part of meals manufacturing. In a controversial New York Occasions essay final December, he argued, “the inconvenient reality is that manufacturing facility farms are the perfect hope for producing the meals we’ll want with out obliterating what’s left of our pure treasures and vaporizing their carbon into the environment.”

One of many surest, most reasonable methods to cut back meat’s outsize land and carbon footprints this century, Grunwald writes, is for diets to interchange beef with poultry and pork, that are far decrease in local weather influence. However that commerce could be morally calamitous — it takes way more particular person chickens and pigs to supply the identical quantity of meat as beef cattle, and people animals are handled far worse.

The anti-anti-factory farming ethos is definitely a manner of our meals system. There’s a brutal logic to it that anti-factory farm advocates should study to take care of.

Take dairy cows as only one illustrative instance: Breeding them for maximal productiveness has meant that “since World Warfare II, the US dairy herd has shrunk by two-thirds, but produces two-thirds extra milk,” Grunwald writes. Had that not occurred, we’d have extra dairy cows emitting extra greenhouse gases, and we’d seemingly have cleared extra land and harmed extra ecosystems to develop the crops that feed them. In a lot of the remainder of the world, dairy herds are a lot much less productive, thereby consuming extra sources and polluting the local weather extra for each gallon of milk produced.

But America’s hyper-productive turbo-cows have come at a extreme value to animal welfare. Dairy cows are among the most depressing animals in our meals system: Like all mammals, they solely make milk after giving start, to feed their infants, however they’ve been bred to supply way over a calf would drink. These astronomical yields destroy the dairy cow’s physique, forcing her to channel “freakish” quantities of power into milk manufacturing, because the meals historian Anne Mendelson has written. (One would possibly argue that the counterfactual could be even worse: a world with extra, less-productive dairy cows, every enduring a lifetime of continuous being pregnant and separation from their calves. However, the sheer extremity of the fashionable turbo-cow’s struggling, and the prospect of bringing many extra of them into the world, crosses an ethical threshold.)

All this for a meals that also, even after cows have been pushed past the bounds of decency, stays considerably worse for the surroundings than merely consuming plant-based meals. So is industrial milk actually a win for the planet?

Certainly one of my favourite visualizations the worldwide meals system comes from Our World in Knowledge:

An infographic from Our World in Data titled “Global land use for food production,” which breaks down land usage in a series of nested charts.Chart Breakdown:Earth’s Surface:71% Ocean (369 Million km 2 )29% Land (141 Million km 2 )Land Surface: (A breakdown of the 29% Land)76% Habitable land (107 Million km 2 )14% Barren land (20 Million km 2 )10% Glaciers (14 Million km 2 )Habitable Land: (A breakdown of the 76% Habitable land)45% Agriculture (48 Million km 2 )38% Forests (40 Million km 2 )13% Shrub (14 Million km 2 )3% Water bodies (3 Million km 2 )1% Urban and built-up land (1 Million km 2 )Agricultural Land: (A breakdown of the 45% Agricultural land)80% Livestock: meat, dairy, textiles (38 Million km 2 , comprised of 32 million km 2  of grazing land and 6 million km 2  of cropland for feed)16% Crops for food (8 Million km 2 )4% Non-food crops like biofuels and cotton (2 Million km 2 )Food Supply Contribution:The chart then links land use to food supply, showing a disparity:Global Calorie Supply:83% from plant-based food17% from meat & dairyGlobal Protein Supply:62% from plant-based food38% from meat & dairyA footnote clarifies that if wild fish catch is included, animal products would provide 18% of calories and 40% of protein.

Plant-based meals — that’s, every thing that’s not meat, dairy, and eggs — already provide greater than 80 p.c of the world’s energy, and practically two-thirds of our protein, with simply 16 p.c of worldwide agricultural land. One conclusion you may draw from this chart is that animal agriculture is so inherently inefficient — we develop feed crops to boost animals that we then slaughter to feed ourselves — that we’ve got to work laborious to seek out methods of creating it extra productive. One other manner of it’s that animal agriculture is so inefficient — and, by the best way, it comes at an unthinkable ethical value, and it would possibly begin the subsequent pandemic — that it will be the definition of lunacy to squander restricted international carbon budgets to supply an ever-greater share of our meals this fashion.

However there’s no single council of humanity that may make that call for our species — solely billions of people making market decisions. They usually have proven each signal that they will hold consuming meat.

So Grunwald requires an all-of-the-above method. We Are Consuming the Earth roots for the success of meat options like plant-based and cell-cultivated meat — and it made me really feel extra optimistic about their future than I’ve in a very long time — simply as a lot because it embraces intensive animal manufacturing. Innovation may make intensive crop agriculture extra planet-friendly, as Grunwald explores, by making it much less depending on inputs that hurt wildlife, like chemical pesticides.

The logic of anti-anti-factory farming genuinely challenged me, as a result of as unattainable as its decisions really feel — will we torture a number of billion extra animals per yr, or let the Amazon burn? — they’re actual trade-offs that policymakers face each day.

It’s laborious to check the despoiling of irreplaceable ecological wonders to the infernal horror of the manufacturing facility farm in response to a cost-benefit evaluation, as a result of they really feel incommensurate. But when we tried to do it truthfully, I’m unsure the reply could be as clear as manufacturing facility farming’s defenders recommend. Their case solely works as a result of meals programs evaluation sees animals as financial inputs, not a lot totally different than a bushel of wheat, somewhat than as who they are surely. It doesn’t significantly have interaction with what it actually means to cattle for meals — the incessant ache of a contemporary broiler hen, or the mind-numbing despair of a caged mom pig used as a reproductive machine.

So let me supply another new e-book advice: my good friend the thinker John Sanbonmatsu’s The Omnivore’s Deception. One other rebuke of Michael Pollan and his protection of consuming animals, it’s the uncommon e-book that unshrinkingly names our tyranny over animals as a “civilizational error,” as Sanbonmatsu writes. It’s “about what occurs after we set up our society, financial system, and each day lives round a radical evil, then have interaction in self-deception to maintain the reality of that evil from ourselves.”

We Are Consuming the Earth is, to a terrific extent, a piece of unsentimental pragmatism, which makes the spirited case for principled idealism within the e-book’s last moments all of the stronger. Generally progress relies on a “refusal to learn the room and cease saying issues no person needed to listen to,” Grunwald writes. “It pays to maintain working and preventing the nice combat, as a result of perhaps one thing good will occur. Perhaps it gained’t, however if you happen to don’t hold working and preventing, it undoubtedly gained’t.”

We should always take a look at animal agriculture the identical manner. We may proceed turning our planet into an enormous manufacturing facility farm, however then, what are we even doing all this for? If we proceed to disregard one of many biggest atrocities of our time — and increase it even additional — what could be the purpose of constructing such a world?

Everywhere in the globe, there are animal advocates urging their fellow people to vary course, and the one manner we’ll really feel our manner out of the manufacturing facility farm lure is to decide to that activity. We don’t know if we’ll ever persuade humanity to desert the “radical evil” of manufacturing facility farming, however it will be an abdication to surrender making an attempt.

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